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February 25

The Caped Crusader

By Julia Jarvis-Knell

Burberry have hit upon, what I think, is a winning formula. Bringing together in a physical space, their latest collection and the inspiration and creative process that created it... 

The latest Burberry Makers House is dedicated to the artist Henry Moore. Moore is best known for his monumental curvaceous bronze forms that are suggestive of the female form and the landscape of his hometown in Yorkshire. Bringing together a number of Moore’s sculptures as well as exhibition posters, working models and maquettes Chief Burberry Creative Christopher Bailey curates a space that holds the inspiration that forms the backbone of this current collection alongside the finished pieces.

Burberry broke the mould last September by showing both male and female collections together based on Virginia Woolf’s gender bending hero/heroine, Orlando, in a sumptuous house setting that evoked an Edwardian interior with rich coloured curtains, carpet and brocade worthy of London’s literary Bloomsbury set.

The scale and form of Moore’s elemental sculptures are also muse for 78 couture capes hung artfully around the structural industrial skeleton that is the old flagship Foyle’s bookstore on Charing Cross Road in central London.

The cape has always had mysterious and magical appeal. From Wonder Woman to Joan of Arc, capes tell intriguing stories. Here, each cape oozes a mastery of craftsmanship. A rope cape, made on a traditional loom, is a nod to Henry Moore's use of threaded string in his art. There’s a cape of pearls, stiff regal ruffs, brocades of lace - plenty of feathers, jewels and fur for anyone who harbours a secret princess obsession. But there are also unexpected materials that intrigue and delight. A cape of peach shells, an architectural stone collar and a steam bent wave of wood. There’s also the quirky, a plastic cape that reminded me of 60s umbrellas, a drape of curtain tassels and a cape of giant pompoms that showed a vivid imagination and a healthy sense of humour. And my personal favourite, a chainmail number that just shouted Brienne of Tarth (Game of Thrones)...

 

 

Burberry Makers House – Henry Moore Inspiration and Process is on until Monday 27th Feburary at 1 Manette Street London, W1D 4AT

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